Real noob question: how to get a bearer token?

Just taking an example from their documentation, you would need to manually add a new header called Authorization and then add Bearer <token> as the value.

curl -X GET "https://ob.nordigen.com/api/v2/institutions/?country=gb" 
-H  "accept: application/json" 
-H  "Authorization: Bearer ACCESS_TOKEN"

You can use use the Bearer Token helper in the Authorization tab of the request, this will auto-create the header once you add the value.

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